Hey all. I'd like to start building a new wardrobe. The first item on the list is to have my collared dress shirts tailored to my build so I can wear them untucked. I'm not overly ripped but I do have wide shoulders with a smaller waist and this can make it difficult finding cloths that fit properly. It's either too tight or too much loose fabric around the waist. Ambercrobie seems to have some good shirts that fit these dimensions but ultimately I'm going to need to use a tailor. So my two questions are:
1) What lengths should I go with for the front and back of the shirt? I've heard about 1 inch below/above the top of the front zipper and one inch above/below the back pants pocket. Is that about right?
2) What's in as far as wearing collared dress shirts? I've been going with wearing them along with jeans, untucked, top 2-3 buttons undone and sleves rolled about 1/4 up.